The trattoria styling – open brickwork, mural, strings of garlic and display of antipasti – is so outdated it feels fresh, but perfect pizza never goes out of fashion, and here are some of the best puffy-yet-crisp pizza bases you’ll find. Look on the specials sheet for wine bargains, such as Chiaretto rosé from Bardolino in the Veneto. The menu lists around 20 pizzas, plus half-and-half combo plates, though you may be diverted by the tempting pasta and gnocchi dishes made on the premises. We were impressed by the freshness and accurate cooking of the seafood, both in a starter of herb-crusted wood-roasted squid, and the garlicky pizza frutta di mare. Own-made desserts such as tiramisu and a white-chocolate-coated sponge shell filled with chocolate ice-cream are fine, but not worth saving room for. Surprisingly, Donna Margherita wasn’t busy on our Sunday lunchtime visit, when it seems the perfect spot for young families. Staff are friendly, easy-going and in no hurry to see us leave.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009